A chemical peel is a treatment in which one or more acid solutions are applied to the skin so that its outer layers shed in a controlled way, down to a planned depth. The removed layer is replaced by new skin that looks smoother and brighter.

The acids loosen the bonds between skin cells so dead cells come away, which encourages the deeper cells to renew. The aim is to improve dark spots, fine lines, acne scars and a dull complexion.

Different acids may be used, such as glycolic acid (AHA), salicylic acid (BHA), lactic acid or TCA (trichloroacetic acid). The acid and its strength are decided at your consultation, based on your skin type and concern.

At-home peeling gels and acid toners are not the same as an in-clinic peel. Clinical solutions are more concentrated, so the skin is assessed, the application is timed and any reaction is managed by a doctor.

Chemical peels are classified by how deep they work:

• Superficial peel: Works only on the top layer of the skin, usually with milder acids such as glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid. It is chosen for dullness, mild spots and pore concerns, and recovery is short.
• Medium-depth peel: Reaches slightly deeper layers and is mostly done with TCA. It may be considered for more visible spots, fine wrinkles and shallow acne scars. Peeling is more noticeable and recovery may take a few days.

Deep peels need a much more demanding recovery and are rarely used today. The right depth depends on your skin type, the season and your expectations; the deeper the peel, the longer the recovery. For more sensitive skin, an enzyme treatment may be considered as a gentler alternative.

A chemical peel is carried out by a doctor in a clinical setting, in these steps:

1. Skin analysis: Your skin type and sun sensitivity are assessed, and the acid and strength are chosen to match your skin’s oil and moisture balance.
2. Cleansing: The skin is cleared of oil and dirt so the acid acts evenly.
3. Acid application: The solution is applied with a brush or gauze. You may feel mild tingling or burning.
4. Neutralization: After the planned time, the acid is neutralized or removed to stop its action.
5. Soothing and protection: The skin is calmed with moisturizing products, and sunscreen is applied.

Depending on the type of peel, the appointment usually takes 20–30 minutes. For one week beforehand, pause products containing retinol or acids and avoid waxing or other hair removal on the area. If you tend to get cold sores, your doctor may suggest a preventive treatment first.

Most people return to their day straight after a superficial peel. A peel can also be one stage of treatments such as porcelain skin care.

A chemical peel may help with:

• Dark spots: It can help fade the look of sun spots, age spots and melasma. See skin spot treatments.
• Acne and acne scars: It helps clear pores and soften the look of shallow scars. See acne and acne scar treatment.
• Oily skin and enlarged pores: It can help balance oil and make pores look less visible.
• Dull skin and fine lines: It supports a brighter, smoother-looking complexion.

When a chemical peel is used for acne scars or spots, a course of several sessions is usually planned, two to four weeks apart. The number of sessions varies with the condition of your skin. A single light peel may also be planned simply to refresh the complexion.

For deep acne scars, marked wrinkles or sagging, a peel alone may not be enough; laser, golden needle or injectable treatments may then be added to the same plan.

New skin is delicate after a peel, and without sun protection, spots may darken instead of fading. Keep your routine simple: a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer and sunscreen are usually enough for the first days.

• Sunscreen: Use a high-SPF sunscreen every day and reapply it during the day.
• Don’t pick: Pulling off peeling skin by hand may increase the risk of scarring or spots.
• Moisturize: Use the soothing moisturizers your doctor recommends regularly.
• Pause active products: Avoid retinol and acid products until your doctor says otherwise.
• Avoid heat: Stay away from saunas, Turkish baths and intense exercise for the first few days.

The most common side effects are redness, tightness and peeling. Rarely, pigmentation changes, infection or scarring may occur, so the peel should be done by an experienced doctor. Darker skin tones may carry a higher risk of pigmentation changes, so the acid and strength are chosen with extra care.